Understanding Your Cycle for Better Skin with Dr. Gürtler

The complex interplay of hormones during a woman's menstrual cycle can affect more than mood and energy levels - it can have a significant impact on the skin. By understanding these hormonal fluctuations and their effects, women can tailor their skincare routines to improve the health and appearance of their skin. Priv.-Doz. Dr. med. Anne Gürtler, a board-certified dermatologist and one of Germany's leading experts in the field of inflammatory facial skin conditions, examines the relationship between the menstrual cycle and the skin, and offers practical advice for each phase.

The female menstrual cycle is orchestrated by a complex interplay of hormones and can be divided into four distinct phases: menstruation, follicular phase, ovulation, and luteal phase. Each phase is characterized by specific hormonal fluctuations. At the heart of this process is GnRH (gonadotropin-releasing hormone), which is released by the hypothalamus in the brain. GnRH signals the pituitary gland to produce FSH (follicle stimulating hormone) and LH (luteinizing hormone). These two hormones stimulate the ovaries to mature eggs and release an egg during ovulation. As the eggs mature, the ovaries produce estrogen, which helps to thicken the uterine lining, making it a supportive environment for a fertilized egg. A peak in estrogen triggers LH, which causes an egg to be released. After ovulation, the ovary forms a temporary structure called the corpus luteum, which secretes progesterone. Progesterone stabilizes the uterine lining and prepares the body for pregnancy. If fertilization doesn't occur, progesterone and oestrogen levels fall, signaling the start of menstruation. Women also produce small amounts of testosterone, which support libido and skin’s sebum production.

While some women notice significant changes in their skin during different phases of the cycle, others may experience these changes more subtly. Either way, understanding the relationship between hormones and skin can empower every woman to embrace her natural cycle and proactively care for her skin. (While subtle skin changes are normal, persistent, or severe problems may warrant consultation with a gynaecologist or endocrinologist).

 

1: Menstruation

Hormonal landscape: Estrogen and progesterone levels are at their lowest.

Skin appearance: Skin may feel more sensitive and drier due to reduced sebum production.Women often report increased skin irritation during this time.

Skin care recommendations: Opt for soothing and moisturising products such as ceramides(to maintain the skin barrier), niacinamide (to calm inflammation) and hyaluronic acid (toreplenish moisture). Stick to a gentle cleansing routine and avoid harsh exfoliation to avoid irritation.

2: Follicular phase (post-menstrual)

Hormonal landscape: Oestrogen levels begin to rise, promoting skin hydration and elasticity. FSH stimulates the growth of ovarian follicles, one of which will become dominant and release an egg.

Skin appearance: Skin may appear more radiant, even, and balanced. 

Skincare recommendations: Consider minimally invasive treatments as the skin tends to tolerate them better at this stage. Introduce antioxidants such as vitamin C or ferulic acid to protect the skin from environmental stressors. Exfoliate with AHA/BHA products to refine the skin texture.

3: Ovulation (mid-cycle)

Hormonal landscape: Estrogen rises and luteinising hormone (LH) peaks, leading to ovulation.

Skin appearance: Skin is typically at its best - hydrated, plump, and glowing. However, some may notice the first signs of blemishes or inflammation.

Skin care recommendations: Maintain a balanced skincare routine with hydrating and protective products and facial masks. Spot treat early blemishes with anti-inflammatory ingredients such as azelaic acid, retinoids, or salicylic acid.

4: Luteal phase (premenstrual phase)

Hormonal landscape: Progesterone increases, stimulating sebum production, while oestrogen decreases. Testosterone may further increase sebum production.

Skin appearance: Many women experience premenstrual symptoms such as clogged pores, acne, or rosacea flares during this time. Skin may also appear more dull or uneven.

Skin care recommendations: Use retinoids to prevent and treat comedones. For inflamed lesions, consider spot treatments with benzoyl peroxide or antibacterial agents such as octenidine. Avoid squeezing pimples as hormonal changes, especially at this stage, can increase pigmentation problems such as post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Combining preventive measures (sunscreen and antioxidants) with corrective treatments (retinoids and azelaic acid) can effectively manage these problems.

While your skincare regime is important, don't forget that lifestyle choices are an integral part of your skin's wellbeing and resilience: 

• Prioritizing home-cooked, nutrient-rich meals made from unprocessed ingredients lays the foundation for skin health.
• Taking targeted supplements such as omega-3, zinc and probiotics can help reduce inflammation.
• Avoiding smoking is crucial as it accelerates ageing.
• Stress management, whether through mindfulness practices, physical activity, or daily routines like your PEARL ritual, is also essential.